Your 2025 Guide to Indian Influenced Footwear
Okay, right then. Grab a cuppa, settle in. Let's talk about something close to my heart, something that instantly transports me back to bustling markets, vibrant weddings, and the echo of my grandparents' footsteps: traditional Indian shoes.
Being a British Indian Londoner, you see these beauties pop up everywhere – from family gatherings in Harrow or Southall to high-fashion shoots. But there's often a bit of mystery around them. What are they really called? Are they comfy? Where can you get the proper good ones?
I get asked these questions all the time, so I thought I’d put together a little guide. Forget fast fashion for a moment; let's step into a world of heritage, artistry, and footwear that tells a story.
Stepping into Tradition: Your Guide to Glorious Indian Footwear
You've seen them, you love them, but what's the difference? Let's break down the big three:
1. The Jutti: A Jewel from the North
(Pronounced: Jhoot-tee)
The Look: Think elegant, closed-toe flats. Traditionally, they have a flat sole and no left/right distinction – they mould to your feet over time! The toe shape varies, often coming to a gentle point ('nokh') or a rounded curve.
The Heartlands: Primarily Punjab and Rajasthan. You can almost feel the vibrant colours and energy of these regions woven into the designs.
The Magic Material: Usually crafted from supple leather (often camel, cow, or buffalo hide) for both the upper and the sole. The real showstopper is the decoration: intricate embroidery is key. We're talking shimmering zari (gold/silver thread), colourful silk threads, beads, sequins, and sometimes even tiny mirrors that catch the light beautifully.
The Craftsmanship: Pure artistry! Skilled artisans, often families who've passed down the craft for generations, meticulously hand-cut the leather, shape the shoe, and then spend hours, sometimes days, on the hand-embroidery. Each pair is a testament to patience and precision.
Cultural Vibe: Historically worn by royalty and the wealthy (Maharajas and Maharanis!), Juttis are now synonymous with celebrations – weddings, festivals like Diwali and Vaisakhi. They add a touch of regal elegance to traditional outfits like Salwar Kameez, Lehengas, and Sherwanis.
Modern Twist: Designers today are having a field day! You'll find Juttis with cushioned soles (a godsend, let me tell you!), contemporary prints, quirky motifs, and even denim or canvas uppers. They look fantastic paired with jeans and a nice top or even a summer chinos for a fusion look. Oh dont forget there are male and female ones but when you see them you will know the difference.
2. The Kolhapuri Chappal: Rugged Charm from Maharashtra
(Pronounced: Koh-laa-poo-ree Chuh-pull)
The Look: Instantly recognisable open-toed sandals, usually in natural leather tones. The classic design features a T-strap construction, often with a distinctive toe-ring loop or side flaps ('kaan' or ears). They have a certain earthy, grounded feel.
The Heartlands: Kolhapur city in Maharashtra, Western India. This region is famed for its leatherwork.
The Magic Material: Traditionally made from vegetable-tanned buffalo leather. This natural tanning process gives them their unique colour and durability. The stitching, often done with leather thongs, is also a characteristic feature. You might see decorative braiding or small pom-poms ('gonda') on some designs.
The Craftsmanship: Robust and handmade. The tanning process itself is specific to the region. Artisans skilfully cut, shape, and stitch the thick leather, creating footwear designed to last. They start off quite stiff but soften beautifully with wear.
Cultural Vibe: Originally more utilitarian footwear, known for their durability on rural terrain. They’ve evolved into a style statement, loved for their comfort (once broken in!) and rustic chic. Perfect for everyday wear in warmer climates, they embody a connection to the earth and traditional craftsmanship.
Modern Twist: While the classic tan Kolhapuri remains iconic, you now find them in vibrant colours, with metallic finishes, platform soles, and added embellishments. They've become a global summer staple, pairing effortlessly with everything from shorts to suits, lending a touch of boho flair.
3. The Mojari: Regal Cousin to the Jutti
(Pronounced: Moh-jah-ree)
The Look: Very similar to Juttis, Mojaris are also closed-toe shoes. The key differentiator often cited is the distinctively curled-up toe ('nokh'), though not all Mojaris have this, and some Juttis might have a slight curve. Generally, Mojaris lean towards the more ornate, elaborate end of the spectrum.
The Heartlands: Often associated with Rajasthan and Mughal influences, reflecting the opulence of royal courts.
The Magic Material: Like Juttis, leather is the base. However, Mojaris frequently feature richer fabrics for the upper – think plush velvets, shimmering silks, rich brocades. The embellishments can be even more extravagant: dense zari or zardozi work (heavy gold/silver embroidery, sometimes incorporating pearls and precious stones), intricate beadwork, and sequins.
The Craftsmanship: Requires exceptional skill, particularly for the detailed embroidery and shaping the sometimes-exaggerated curled toe. These are often considered pieces of wearable art, showcasing the pinnacle of traditional embroidery techniques.
Cultural Vibe: Strongly associated with royalty, nobility, and formal occasions, particularly weddings for grooms wearing Sherwanis. They exude a sense of grandeur and traditional luxury.
Modern Twist: While classic ornate Mojaris remain popular for grooms, simpler versions are available. Modern interpretations might tone down the curl, use contemporary fabrics, or simplify the embroidery for a less formal, more versatile shoe.
Answering Your Burning Questions
What Materials Are Really Used?
Primarily leather (cow, buffalo, goat, sheep) forms the foundation – uppers and soles. For decoration, it's all about textiles (silk, velvet, cotton brocade) and stunning embellishments using silk or cotton threads, metallic threads (zari), beads, sequins, mirrors, and occasionally semi-precious stones on high-end Mojaris. Increasingly, you'll find vegan alternatives using faux leather and fabrics like canvas or denim.
What's the Craftsmanship Like?
It's labour-intensive and highly skilled. Almost always handmade. Key processes include:
- Pattern Cutting: Carefully cutting the leather/fabric pieces.
- Embroidery/Embellishment: This is often done before the shoe is assembled and is incredibly detailed work.
- Stitching: Hand-stitching the upper parts and attaching the sole. Kolhapuris involve specific stitching techniques with leather thongs.
- Shaping: Moulding the shoe into its final form, sometimes using wooden lasts.
- Tanning (Kolhapuris): A specific vegetable tanning process unique to the region. It's a craft passed down through generations, relying on precision, patience, and an artistic eye.
Where Can I Buy Authentic Pairs (Especially Here in the UK)?
In India: The best places are often the source regions! Jaipur and Jodhpur markets for Juttis/Mojaris, Amritsar for Punjabi Juttis, Kolhapur city for genuine Kolhapuris. Government emporiums can also offer quality assurance.
In the UK:
- Specialist Boutiques: Areas with large South Asian communities like Southall, Wembley (London), Leicester, or Birmingham have shops often importing directly. Explore the smaller stores!
- Online Platforms: Many reputable Indian brands now ship internationally. Look for brands known for quality craftsmanship. Platforms like Etsy can be good, but check seller reviews diligently to ensure authenticity and quality. Search specifically for "handmade leather Jutti," "authentic Kolhapuri," or go to Mumbailads and try the Kiaan Collection ;)
- Pop-ups & Exhibitions: Keep an eye out for South Asian wedding shows or cultural festivals – artisans and vendors often showcase their work there.
Authenticity Check: Look for genuine leather (it should smell like leather!), neat hand-stitching, intricate (not cheap-looking) embroidery, and a solid construction. For Kolhapuris, authentic ones are quite stiff initially and have that distinct tanned leather look and feel. Price often reflects the quality of materials and handwork involved.
Beyond Tradition: MumbaiLads [ML] Styling for Today
The beauty of these shoes is their versatility. Don't just save them for Indian outfits!
- Juttis: Brilliant with cropped jeans, tailored trousers, midi skirts, or summer dresses. They add an unexpected pop of colour and intricate detail.
- Kolhapuris: Your go-to summer sandal. Perfect with shorts, linen trousers – basically anything you'd wear on a warm day for that relaxed, boho-chic vibe.
- Mojaris: While the super ornate ones are best kept for traditional wear or very special occasions, simpler Mojaris can work similarly to Juttis, adding a slightly more regal touch.
These shoes aren't just footwear; they're conversation starters, carriers of culture, and stunning examples of human artistry. Investing in a well-made pair is investing in a tradition that deserves to be cherished and celebrated, whether you're walking the streets of London or dancing at a family wedding.
At MumbaiLads we created the Kiaan collection to take Indian influenced footwear to the next level bringing together traditional styling with comfort. So, next time you're looking for something special for your feet, maybe skip the usual high street finds and step into a piece of Indian heritage. Your feet (and your wardrobe) will thank you!